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NOTES > PINOT
NOIR
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PINOT
NOIR
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June
11, 2001 The Ripe Tomato
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Our first tasting since
January, we tried several versions of the varietal we
just can't seem to get enough of - Pinot Noir. Starting
with a vertical of wines that used fruit from Elke
Vineyard in Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, we
challenged them with some stiff competition in both price
and quality. The wines were divided into two flights,
grouped by younger and older vintages. As might be
expected, the first flight showed more complexity and
maturity, while the second displayed more overall
intensity and vibrancy. Individual Quiche Tarts and
Mexican Roast Beef Caravans accompanied the first flight
and Grilled Salmon with Aioli the second.
Brand
Vintage
&
Varietal/Type
Appellation
-$ price / Alcohol
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Consensus
Tasting Notes
Notes
in bold type indicate three
or more comments in agreement.
(enclosed ?) = comment on a possible
flaw
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#Rank
Buying
Advice
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FLIGHT
ONE
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1994-97
Vintages
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Sanford
1997 Pinot
Noir
Santa Barbara
County
$17. / 14.0%
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Light garnet,
clear; complex, rich, sweet, fruity,
berry, tea, orange, spicy, cola, cassis,
tobacco, vanilla, milk chocolate, smoke, mushroom,
medicine (sulfur?) and barnyard aromas;
pleasant, spicy, cassis, cinnamon, tea, leather,
somewhat intense flavors (unripe?); slightly
rich, well-balanced; smooth, round,
developed tannins; medium-long,
pleasant finish, faintly hot. Very
attractive and nicely developed wine; very well
balanced now, but probably at its peak over the
next two years.
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#1
Very
Highly Recommended
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Steele
1994 Pinot
Noir
Santa Maria
Valley
"Bien Nacido Vineyard"
$20. / 14.0%
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Light
garnet-brick, very slightly cloudy; complex,
rich, spicy, "port"-ish aroma mixes ripe
tomato, sour cherry, strawberry, slightly
earthy-barnyard aromas with faint notes of
perfume, cola, celery, green olive,
smoke, bacon fat, leather, mushroom and
medicine; similar flavors add tart cherries,
raspberries and pepper; easy-drinking,
slightly rich, fat, fully mature; balanced,
slightly acidic; smooth, light,
slightly dusty tannins; pleasant finish, not
long. This wine drinks nicely, but is losing fruit
and should be consumed within the next year or so,
while some vibrancy remains.
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#2
Very
Highly Recommended
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Farella-Park
1994 Pinot
Noir
Anderson
Valley, "Elke Vineyards"
$18. / 14.0%
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Medium ruby to
garnet-brick, clear with a few particles of
sediment; complex, herbal, green tomato,
violet, oak, vanilla and black
cherry fruit aromas, with some barnyard and
a slight sharpness (stemmy?); good entry, pleasant,
herbal, spicy, woody, fruity and tart or
dried cherry flavors; medium
body, good balance, slightly
tart; smooth, soft, medium tannins;
lingers well, slightly hot. This wine is in
good condition and may hang on for another couple
of years of drinkability. Pair with salmon and a
light citrus sauce.
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#3
Very
Highly Recommended
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Elke
1997 Pinot Noir
Anderson
Valley
"Donnelly Creek Vineyard"
$22. / 13.5%
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Light ruby to
garnet-brick, clear; complex, rich aromas
mix cherry, strawberry, cola, spice,
smoke, oak, toast, barnyard, mushroom
and faint ammonia (sulfur?); focused
flavors are bigger than most wines in this
group with elements of fruit, black cherry,
spice, cinnamon, smoke and meat; somewhat rich,
elegant, good balance, slightly tart;
smooth tannins, long finish. This
wine still has two or three years of life ahead and
has flavors that will stand up to savory lamb and
beef dishes.
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#4
Very
Highly Recommended
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Cambria
1994 Pinot
Noir
Santa Maria
Valley
"Julia's Vineyard"
$20. / 14.0%
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Medium-dark
garnet-brick, clear; subtle sweetness, slight
woodiness to overall very light, although complex
aromas of fruit, dried cherries, cola, raisin, bay
leaf, capers, ketchup, stems, meat, smoke,
mustiness, alcohol and diesel; nice mature flavors,
raisiny, slight oxidation, touch of ripe strawberry
fruit remains; good balance; smooth tannins
with a velvety mouthfeel; finish is weak,
slightly tart, slightly hot. This wine is on
the waning edge of drinkability, oak seems dominant
as the fruit drops into the background; drink up.
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#5
Recommended
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CORKED
(unnamed)
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(an additional bottle turned out to be "corked" -
PfW HATES it when this happens ...)
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(not rated)
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FLIGHT
TWO
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1998-99
Vintages
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Williams
Selyem
1998 Pinot Noir
Mendocino
$35. / 13.0% alcohol
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Medium
ruby-brick; big, rich, fruity (underripe?), sweet,
raspberry, cherry and cola aromas with spicy
hints of cinnamon, peppermint, pine,
tea, truffle, smoke and barnyard; big, sour
candy, strawberry and orange peel flavors; good
balance, but lean, lacks richness; medium
body; light tannins; faint heat
noticeable in the fairly long finish. This
wine won out on the power and appeal of its aromas
and disappointed some tasters for not having a
bigger mouth feel to match the nose.
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#1
Very
Highly Recommended
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Steele
1998 Pinot
Noir
Mendocino
"DuPratt Vineyard"
$20. / 14.0%
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Medium-light
ruby; spicy notes of oak,
coconut, truffle, earth, smoke and briar
dominate cherry fruit aroma (musty?); sweet fruit,
rhubarb, cherry, cola, "kool-aid" or "cough syrup"
flavors with spicy, oak, vanilla, tobacco,
tea, cinnamon and coconut notes; medium body
is slightly hollow; fairly long finish is
slightly tannic and hot. This big wine drinks very
well, but derives much of its power from spicy,
sweet oak, rather than ripe, deep fruit. Time may
not be kind.
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#2
Very
Highly Recommended
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Williams
Selyem
1998 Pinot Noir
Russian River
Valley
"Allen Vineyard"
$48. / 13.0% alcohol
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Medium-dark ruby;
pretty, raspberry, strawberry fruit,
slightly spicy aromas with a hint of
barnyard (initial herbal or sulfur stink?);
big, rich, powerful, full, fruit and
berry flavors with some smoke in the
background; medium body, lush texture; very well
balanced, slightly tart; medium tannins; long
finish. Excellent wine and very enjoyable to
drink. Should last easily for three to five more
years of cellaring.
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#3
Very
Highly Recommended
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Elke
1998 Pinot Noir
Anderson
Valley
"Donnelly Creek Vineyard"
$22. / 13.5%
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Light ruby;
bright fruit, black or dried cherry,
spicy, black pepper, green (stemmy?) and very
slightly oaky aromas are initially
closed-in; light, cola, fresh
strawberry and cherry flavors; light
to medium body, silky texture; balance
slightly tart; long finish is slightly hot.
Not as intense or powerful as its company, but very
nice wine, altogether enjoyable.
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#4
Highly
Recommended
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Elke
1999 Pinot Noir
Anderson
Valley
"Donnelly Creek Vineyard"
$22. / 13.5%
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Light
ruby; light, but appealing, ripe tomato, cinnamon,
cherry, oak and slightly earthy, faintly yeasty
aromas; fruity, cherry-berry, cedar,
cinnamon and licorice flavors; somewhat
rich, silky texture; balance slightly tart;
young tannins; light, long finish is faintly
hot. Youthful and angular, this wine may come
together with a little more bottle age before its
release later this summer.
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#5
Recommended
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Pepperwood
Grove
1998 Pinot Noir
California
$8.00 / 13.1%
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Medium ruby;
pleasant, sweet, bright, fruity, jammy and
cherry aromas with hints of tomato, salami,
olive and mint; light, young, simple,
pleasant, berry, easy-drinking flavors;
well-balanced; light body; short finish. A simple,
reasonably varietal, pleasant quaff that is more
than reasonably priced.
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#6
Recommended
BEST
BUY
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This
Panel
included REGULARS Kevin, Mark, Deanna,
Glenn, Jon, Jim, Ron, Greg, and James and
GUESTS Betsy, Bob, and Frank
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Pinot Noir
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