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VIOGNIER
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VIOGNIER
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July 9,
2001 The Ripe Tomato
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Although no vines
could be found in the state prior to 1990, Viognier, with
the persistence of the Rhône Rangers, has
become California's emerging (or should we say
"curious"?) white varietal. For perspective, when reading
our notes and recommendations, keep in mind that only a
couple of panel members profess to really like Viognier
in general. Several tasters admitted they have not been
so far enamored and that this tasting was a little like a
"forced march", which may account for many negative or
halfhearted comments. Surprisingly, panelists detected a
number of wines with sulfur-dioxide problems, although
most seemed to clean up with a little airing.
Brand
Vintage
Varietal or "Name"
Appellation,
Vineyard
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Tasting Notes: Color; aroma; flavor;
body;
balance; finish, alcohol %. Summary. ($ paid)
**consensus (flaws?)**
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VERY HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED
(Listed Alphabetically within each
category)
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Rosenblum
2000 Viognier
Lodi, Ripkin
Vineyard
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Light straw;
mildly sweet, fresh, light, complex aroma
mingles honeysuckle, grapefruit, stone fruit, oak,
and lees; very pleasant, peach, apricot, clean,
light, lively flavors; light to medium body
with some richness; slightly tart, "snappy"
balance; finish has just slight hints of heat and
astringency, 14.6%. Very well-grown, well-made
varietal example that makes an easy-drinking, very
enjoyable wine. ($11.50)
BEST
BUY
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HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED
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Eberle
2000 Viognier
Paso Robles,
"Mill Road Vineyard"
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Golden; rich,
clean, spicy, citrussy, very ripe fruit and
honey-like, butterscotch aromas; light,
easy-drinking, clean, concentrated fruit,
apricot, slightly earthy flavors; rich, medium-full
body; well balanced, crisp; long finish with
a little heat, 14.5%. Overall a very nice wine,
although the aromas set up more expectation than
the flavors provided. ($16.)
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Jepson
2000 Viognier
Mendocino
County
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Pale gold; rich,
fresh, honeysuckle, orange blossom, fruity,
peach, citric, lemony aromas with
grassy (stemmy?), Sauvignon Blanc-like
(cat box?) notes; clean, mouth-filling fruit
flavors match nose (underripe?); medium body; crisp
balance is slightly tart; long, clean
finish, 14.5%. Overall well-liked, although with a
slight "edginess" that put an exact label just out
of reach. ($14.)
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RECOMMENDED
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Alban
1999 Viognier
Edna Valley,
Estate
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Light gold;
candied peach, butter, alcoholic (sour milk?
wiener? sulfur-dioxide? ) aromas; light,
canned peach and butter rum flavors with a hint of
bell pepper (sour milk? chemical?); rich, medium
body; tart balance; fruit shows mainly in the
finish, 14.7%. The flavors were tolerable and
balance fine, but the aggressive aroma was a
put-off. Some tasters thought this may have been a
bad bottle. ($25.)
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EXP
(R.H.
Phillips)
1999 Viognier
Dunnigan
Hills
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Pale gold; clean,
floral, lemony, spicy, "rainwater", candied,
"bubble gum" aroma (initial sulfur-dioxide?)
with slight wood; bland, nondescript
flavors; medium body; well balanced,
slightly flabby; clean, long, slightly
bitter finish, 14%. Fairly well balanced,
innocuous tasting wine, marred by sulfur.
($13.)
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Garretson
2000 Viognier
Paso Robles,
Fralich Vineyard
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Very light pale
yellow; mild, peach, floral,
candied aromas; slightly sweet, lemon,
apricot, pear, syrupy flavors match the
aromas; full, luscious (thick?) body; well
balanced; long, clean finish, 14.6%. There was
some controversy over this wine - some panel
members thought the balance flabby, some tart. It
seemed overall very clean and quite pleasant
without much complexity. ($20.)
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Pepperwood
Grove
1999 Viognier
California
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Light yellow
gold; rich, ripe to overripe strawberry, pineapple,
honey and oak aromas (slight
sulfur-dioxide?); pleasant entry, light,
concentrated, fruity flavors; medium to full body
(cumbersome?); well balanced, slightly
tart; slightly alcoholic, slightly
bitter finish, 12.5%. Too fruity for some
panelists, but others thought a good candidate for
quaffing if well-chilled. ($7.50)
BEST
BUY
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Vichon
1998 Viognier
Mediterranean
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Light
greenish-yellow; pleasant, very light,
citric, lemon, anise, grassy, herbal
(burnt?) aromas; very light, lean (almost
no) flavors; body controversial (thin,
watery or full, fat); balance slightly low
acid, 12.5%; quick finish. Not very exciting, but
also nothing objectionable in this wine which, well
chilled, would make an agreeable and quite
reasonably-priced quaffer. ($7.)
BEST
BUY
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NOT
RECOMMENDED
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Renwood
2000 Viognier
California
"Sierra Series"
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Light yellow;
(initial sulfur-dioxide?) citrus, peach,
cantaloupe, lees, and wood in aroma; initially
harsh, austere, mineral, (chemical?) flavors were
flat and lacking fruit; body; tart (sour?)
balance; slightly tannic, slightly bitter,
slightly hot in finish, 13.5%. Renwood needs to pay
attention, if they expect to be in the Viognier
market. ($10.50)
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Smith
& Hook
1998 Viognier
Arroyo
Seco
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Light amber;
unpleasant, overripe stench
(sulfur-dioxide? corked?); bland,
flat minerally, "rubber band" (slightly
oxidized?) flavors, completely lacking in fruit;
bitter, hot finish, ??%. What happened here?
Bad winemaking, bad storage, or some of each? One
taster's remark: "Tastes like wine drunk through a
hot garden hose." ($14.50)
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This
Panel
included Regulars Kevin, Deanna, Glenn,
Marlene, Jon, Ray, Tammy, James, and Guest
Peter
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Viognier
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