VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Charles Ellner
1993 "Seduction" Millésimé

Light straw color, very tiny bubbles, not very active; yeasty, apply and caramel aromas; appealing, very delicate green apple flavors; good body, rich, creamy mouthfeel; very good balance, crisp, slightly tart; lingers well. Blend of 75% Chardonnay,25% Pinot Noir. Very nice, elegant wine in a good-looking package. ($50) WEBSITE

Deutz
(nv)
Brut Classic
Cuvée 2000

Light straw color, very active, very small bubbles are persistent; complex, floral, perfumey, apple cider and caramel aromas with hints of malt, yeast and autolysis; big, rich, complex, fruity, apple cider flavors; pleasant mouthfeel, not very expansive; balance is crisp, slightly tart; slightly sour finish lingers somewhat. Blend of 38% Pinot Noir, 32% Pinot Meunier and 30% Chardonnay. Very complex and flavorful. ($32). WEBSITE n/a

Laurent-Perrier
(nv) Brut

Light straw color, tiny and very active bubbles; fruity, citrus, biscuit dough and woody-toasty aromas; clean, delicate, almond flavors; very light, soft mousse, creamy; good balance; lingering finish. Blend of 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier. This wine has balance, texture and a lovely style. ($30) WEBSITE

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Bollinger
(nv)
Special Cuvée

Light straw color, small, barely active bubbles; vinous, slightly yeasty aromas with a hint of cardboard; deep, light fruity, lemony flavors; rich, creamy, expansive mousse; crisp, tart balance; long, Granny Smith apple finish is slightly astringent (sour?). Blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier. Very slightly aggressive compared to this group of wines. ($28) WEBSITE

Jacques Selosse
(nv) "Origine" Blanc de Blanc Brut

Medium straw color, tiny bubbles, very little activity; ripe fruit, caramel and slightly yeasty aromas with slight autolysis; very nice entry flavors; creamy, slightly expansive mousse; balance is slightly tart; finishes long, but a little flat. Composed entirely of Chardonnay. Very nice wine with quite modern packaging. ($50) website n/a

Michel Gonet
(nv)
Brut Reserve

Light straw color, very small bubbles, very active; very delicate, attractive, complex, floral, yeasty, biscuit dough aromas with slight autolysis; attractive sweet almond, older flavors, somewhat creamy; expansive mousse; good balance, slightly tart; lingers well. Blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. This wine, although dry, seemed sweetest of the lot. ($30) WEBSITE

Perrier-Jouët
(nv)
Grand Brut

Pale gold; very small bubbles, very active, persistent; clean, floral aromas with hints of yeast, toast, autolysis (petroleum? mustiness?); pleasant, very fruity flavors; somewhat creamy, slightly expansive mousse, a little coarse; crisp, good balance; medium long finish. Blend is "dominated by white grapes." A couple of comments about odd elements here, but consensus said another enjoyable wine. ($24) WEBSITE

Pommery
(nv)
Brut Royale

Light straw color, tiny bubbles, barely active; floral, citrus, light yeast and sweet apple pie aromas; very light, delicate, clean flavors; slightly creamy, expansive; balanced; finish lingers somewhat, a little flat. Blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier (percentages not disclosed) and approximately one-third Chardonnay. The house of Pommery has revved up its marketing program recently, leading with this delicate entry. ($42) WEBSITE

Taittinger
(nv) Brut
La Français

Light gold, tiny bubbles, not active; complex, toasty, cidery, maple nut, caramel and yeasty, biscuit dough aromas with a hint of autolysis; bread, citrus and oaky, toasty (burnt?) older, mature flavors; full body, not much mousse; tart balance; long finish. Blend of 60% Pinot (Noir? Meunier?) and 40% Chardonnay. The slightly burnt flavor bothered some tasters and lowered this quite different and controversial wine in the rankings. ($35) WEBSITE

Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin
(nv) Brut
Carte Jaune
("Yellow Label")

Light straw color, very small, active bubbles; very light apple, fruity aromas with a hint of caramel and autolysis; very delicate (flabby?) flavors; light body, mouth-filling, creamy, very expansive mousse; crisp balance; finishes slightly tart with very persistent tingle and zing. The blend is "dominated" by Pinot Noir, with Chardonnay and "a touch of" Pinot Meunier. This wine, a perennial group favorite, in this case concentrates its appeal in its wonderful texture. We want it all: where's the yeast? ($30) WEBSITE