BOTRYTIS CINEREA is
a fungal disease that can blight many species of plants, including flowers,
fruits, and vegetables. Depending upon weather conditions, Botrytis can
take one of two forms in grapes, one as destroyer, the other as enhancer.
As "grey rot" it appears and grows during
lengthy periods of humidity early in the season. Settling in on immature
grapes, it multiplies rapidly. The bunches seem covered with a grey powder
and the berries eventually darken and drop. Yields are greatly reduced
and wine made from this fruit will taste moldy and oxidize easily. In
some climates, grey rot is a severe problem with most all grape varieties. Dessert wines made with botrytised grapes
are prized and somewhat rare, because weather conditions must be just
right for "Noble Rot" to occur. Ideally, a short period of humidity
or rain in mid to late season, when the grapes are more ripe than green,
will be followed by a sustained period of cool, dry weather, where daytime
temperature hovers near 60° F. Under these somewhat rare
conditions, the Botrytis fungi penetrate the grape skins
with mycelia to feed and take water from the grapes, which
shrivel. Overall acidity decreases. Gums form, along with
glutinic and citric acids, and the grape sugars become very
concentrated. This intense sweetness partially inhibits
yeast and fermentation can be very slow, lasting for months. High concentrations
of glycerol develop during these extended fermentations and the resulting
wines can be fragrantly enticing, exceptionally smooth, and extremely
long-lived, cellaring well for decades. Updated
September 5, 2008
In certain white grape varieties, such as Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling,
and Furmint, an infection of Botrytis can be so beneficial, even critical,
to the production of dessert wines like Sauternes in France, Tröckenbeerenauslese
in Germany, or Tokaj in Hungary, that the mold is called "Noble Rot" in
these locales (La Pourriture Noble in french, Edelfaule
in German).
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